guest blog: sustainability, and how one restaurant works with, and supports it, part two

The third post in a series of guest posts from the team at RIA and Balsan in the Elysian Hotel, Brian O'Connor gets down to the anatomy—sometimes hair pulling—of sourcing product, and specifically seafood, that's sustainably harvested. This blog exists because I wanted to know the stories behind where my food was coming from—and this post hits on that note, to the T. For more on Monday's dinner, go here.

The dining room at RIA.

OK, now that we’ve set the ground rules for sustainability, how do they translate into real dishes at a real restaurant? 

Yesterday I mentioned the challenge of a longer supply chain. At the restaurant we try to know everyone from whom we purchase product. We visit our local farms and hang out with the farmers at the market. Our Sommelier, Dan, gets regular visits from winemakers and makes his own way out to their properties as much as possible. While we’ve had a few chances to drop in on oyster farms in the northwest and we can work out a trip on a fishing boat now and then, it’s difficult in the middle of the country to build the kind of direct relationships we’re used to with the multitude of mariners who regularly catch our fish. 

So what can we do to make up for it? “We have to know, and trust, our purveyors,” says our Chef de Cuisine Danny Grant. He singles out a handful: Pierless Fish, Ingrid Bengis Seafood, and especially Mika Higurashi at SONA (which stands for Sustainability of Natures and Aquaculture). “I know I can tell Mika what I am looking for and she will find the highest quality and the best source.” It’s a lesson learned over and over in this business: personal relationships are the path to success.

So now that we’re more comfortable outsourcing our direct purchasing to a trusted wholesaler, what do we buy? Let’s walk through a dish we’ll be serving Monday night: Sea Scallop, Caviar, Octopus, Fumet Blanc.

A RIA dish: Scallop and Octopus. With
turnip, sturgeon caviar, fumet.

The above is a chilled appetizer of gently poached scallop and octopus with hakurei turnip, American sturgeon caviar and a classic fumet emulsified with a touch of crème fraîche. It features a variety of seafood, each of which can be sustainably sourced.

Ingrid’s Diver-Harvested Scallops 

Sea Scallops are a success story for sustainable seafood. In the 1970s industrial scallop capture nearly destroyed the natural population of Atlantic scallops. By the 80s the US began to restructure its scallop fisheries, introducing catch limits and rotational fishing and even closing off entire areas to harvest. The tenacious scallops showed their resilience and populations rebounded faster than anyone imagined.

Scallops have little inherent vulnerability. They are small, mature quickly and reproduce in large numbers (females produce 15-60 million eggs). Additionally, biomass has been closely watched since the 80s and populations are known to be large and strong. While East Coast US fishing regimes are not always thoroughly enforced, the fisheries have been managed reasonably well.

However, there remain concerns about by-catch and habitat damage due to the trawling used to capture the majority of commercial scallops. These trawls scrape along the ocean bottom, regularly upsetting the balance of the ecosystem and also capturing skate, flounder, sea turtles and other marine life.

From a diver's eyes via piggyhiggins' photostream.

Thankfully, a responsible alternative exists: scallops hand-harvested by divers. This less-invasive method avoids much of the ecosystem damage and by-catch while also functioning on a day-to-day basis. Instead of large ships dredging up scallops and then holding them aboard for a week or two before returning to land, the “diver” scallops are harvested in the morning and brought ashore in the afternoon. By the next day we have them in the kitchen.

When they come ashore, Ingrid Bengis-Palei or one of her employees is waiting for them. Ingrid Bengis Seafood was a pioneer in the Northeast quality and sustainability revolution of the 80s and 90s (she’s been called the Alice Waters of seafood for her role). She knows most of the Mainers who gather seafood in the icy waters around Deer Isle and she works with them to find the best of the best. As so often happens, the individual touch so important to sustainability also brings us product of the highest quality.

Wild Spanish Pot-Caught Octopus

Like lobster pots in New England, these pots help Spanish fisherman
 effectively catch wild octopus, via catrien's photostream.

Researching Octopus is a great way to dive into the complexities of sustainability. A variety of octopus fisheries exist worldwide, each of them managed differently. A quick glance at the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s seafood card finds international wild octopus listed as “avoid.” Uh oh. However, the Aquarium publishes more detailed Seafood Reports that approach the issue with an academic level of detail and flesh out more specifics for each fishery. The major reason octopus gets a red “avoid” is because it is nearly impossible, sitting at a sushi counter or browsing in a grocery store, to reliably tell the provenance of the product. With a bit of research, though, one can find sources of responsibly caught octopus.

Our relationships help us find these sources. We get our wild octopus from Spain, where fisherman head out daily to pull in their pot traps. The octopus has a relatively short lifecycle and produces hundreds of eggs, which means it has little inherent vulnerability. Overfishing does not occur and the inland pots catch mostly mature octopus with negligible by-catch. The true size of the stock is unknown, but fishing levels have remained constant for nearly 30 years in a well-watched regime. The remaining environmental concerns revolve around uncertainty: little is know about the octopus’s role in the larger food chain.

Additionally, Spanish fisheries have been remarkably creative in responding to the ecological and economic challenges of modern fishing. Spanish institutes often develop and fund those Sardine-counting studies I mentioned yesterday and the Spanish have been at the forefront of modernizing aquaculture to restore marine environments (more on that in my final post).

Petrossian American Sturgeon Caviar

Petrossian is a caviar staple, and a staple in our kitchen, too.

Unlike the scallop, the wild sturgeon is not a success story. Sturgeon are long-lived fish and they tend to reproduce rarely. They are inherently vulnerable to overfishing.

Worldwide stocks remain at levels so dangerously low that many governments have outlawed their capture. Black market fishing continues, often catching the fish only to open them and remove the gleaming black caviar inside. As stocks near extinction (and the remaining fish tend to be chock full of PCBs and Mercury), the US has banned the import of Caspian Sea sturgeon caviar.

In the US wild sturgeon are making a comeback and there is even one viable (and heavily regulated) commercial fishery in the Columbia River. The meat of these fish is delicious. For caviar, however, we turn to aquaculture—fish farming.

After years of research and failed experiments, in the 1980s scientists in California finally succeeded in raising sturgeon in captivity. Since then, commercial sturgeon aquaculture has taken off and currently exists in three states with plans to expand to others. As these operations improve, caviar packers have begun to partner with them to cure, pack and age the sturgeon roe in the quest to create a product comparable to the legendary Caspian caviar.

Petrossian has been selling caviar since the 1920’s, when they worked with Cesar Ritz to establish caviar as a symbol of luxury. While there is a certain status conveyed by the tiny eggs, we like them because they are delicious—well cared for, aged and packed.

Petrossian sources their sturgeon roe from Stolt Sea Farms in Sacremento, California. As might be imagined, aquaculture avoids the sustainability concerns of wild seafood such as population vulnerabilities and overfishing. By-catch isn’t really a problem when one is raising only fish for harvest.

There are, however, other environmental concerns associated with aquaculture (more on this in the next installment!) and Stolt does a fine job addressing them. The sturgeon are raised in water that is re-circulated, avoiding the escape of farmed fish or waste into natural ecosystems. The waste is processed and sold as fertilizer. The one remaining challenge in current sturgeon aquaculture is that the fish are carnivorous and eat more seafood than they produce.

One Dish, 1200 Words 

The heartbeat of the kitchen...

OK—I hope the anatomy of a single dish’s sourcing helps to illuminate some of the thought that goes into selecting our seafood. Are we perfectly sustainable? Of course not. Are there trade-offs and compromises involved in our decisions and sourcing? Certainly. But by utilizing the resources we have and cultivating relationships with like-minded people, we can take great steps toward operating a more responsible restaurant.

One of the most common refrains in discussions of sustainable seafood is that transparency is key. We need transparency from the folks catching the fish about their methods and the status of their fisheries. We need transparency from our purveyors regarding the provenance of the product. And we need to remember that our guests need transparency in order to make well-informed decisions. We don’t list every single purveyor on our menu, but we do our very best to ensure our team knows the source of every single item on the plate.

By the way, the hakurei turnips come from Heritage Prairie Farm in La Fox, Illinois.

guest blog: a contest!

This post is the second in what has now evolved to be four guest entries from my friends in the kitchen at the Elysian Hotel—and today we're hearing from Executive Chef Jason McLeod. On Monday night they're hosting a 'ocean-friendly' seafood dinner at RIA, in partnership with the Shedd Aquarium's Right Bite program. The dinner is $150 per person, so this is quite the bounty for whoever wins... but for me, I'm helping spread word of an issue I care deeply about.

Common in South America, this little guy will be spreading the
ocean-friendly message Monday at RIA, via Oleg Volkov's photostream.

It's official. Not only will we be cooking with some gorgeous sustainable seafood Monday night, but we just found out we'll have some very special friends visiting us throughout the dinner, too. Some, how do I say this, unique friends... and I think it's safe to say it'll be the first time either will have set foot in the Elysian. Actually, I doubt they get out much in Chicago at all.

Roll out the red carpet, people—we'll be joined by a Red Foot Tortoise and a Blue Tongue Skink. And I know, those names are great, aren't they?

I don't know about you guys, but this takes me way back to my childhood. We were lucky enough to have a zoo that made trips to our school with all sorts of cool stuff from the zoo and that day was always one of the best of the year. I mean, getting up close to animals and reptiles and birds I'd never seen before and skipping out on class? That's the real deal, man.

Needless to say, this news had the staff giddy with excitement—which got us thinking. We need to have some more fun with this. To spread the message to more people. So, because we're now on twitter and constantly plugged in to that always spinning network, we're gonna open up two seats to the Shedd Dinner via a little contest... and whoever comes out on top? Those seats are theirs, on us.

The Blue Tongue Skink will be there Monday night, too. Common
in the Land Down Under, we'll have one in the dinning room.
via floridanaturephotography's photostream.

And here's how it's gonna work...

Part 1. Correctly answer the following two questions in the comment section of this blog post (correct answers will be published on the blog upon receipt):

1) Our ocean-friendly dinner menu will be featuring sea scallops. This tasty seafood is considered what species? 

(*UPDATE* No need to go crazy specific here, just tell us if it's a bird or reptile or... you know.)

2) The ocean-friendly dinner menu will also include Dungeness crab. This crab is named after a region found where?

3) What luxurious seafood was once considered to be 'poverty food,' fed to prisoners and servants? Some servants even demanded contracts that they could be fed this food no more them three times per week.

Part 2. Post the following on twitter, tagging @riabalsanchefs in the post (tweets submitted before correct completion of Part 1 will not be accepted, first person to finish is dining with a plus one on us):

1) A photograph of any RIA dish featuring any of the above three types of seafood.

Follow the rules and finish first and you'll be hanging out with a Red Foot Tortoise and a Blue Tongue Skink, too—though, maybe don't dress like them?

And keep a look out for Brian's second post, following the first he posted the other day. He's been working his tail off on this project—and that's not easy when you have a restaurant to run!

guest blog: sustainability, and how one restaurant works with, and supports it

On Monday, November 15, Ria restaurant, one of my newest partners, will team up with the Shedd Aquarium to present an “Ocean Friendly” dinner featuring a sustainably-sourced menu.  For the next three days, Ria General Manager Brian O’Connor will discuss the complexities and concerns associated with sourcing sustainable seafood, a struggle difficult for restaurants, but one I hope more and more take on—and one I've written about at length in the past.

The Shedd Aquarium via setholiver1's photostream.

Hi there.  Thanks to Johnny Auer for providing this opportunity to think out loud (or in type) about some of the challenges and rewards involved with sustainable seafood.  I’ll be posting three times on the subject: today I’ll discuss the general goals and criteria of sustainable sourcing, tomorrow I’ll get into some examples we face each day in the restaurant, and then Friday I’ll do my best to describe the future direction I see the whole endeavor heading.

Sourcing sustainable seafood presents even more complex challenges than those associated with other sustainable food.  The usual concerns associated with sustainable sourcing are there: environmental impact, methods of production, and of course quality of the product.  Additionally, we have to worry about the uncertainty inherent in a longer supply chain, the stability of species populations and the length of their reproductive lifecycle, and even the effectiveness of public and private oversight. 

Investigating the sustainability of our seafood presents other problems.  We make it a point to regularly visit and communicate with our farmers, and we can see firsthand the methods used and even debate their effectiveness when necessary.  Getting out to the Alaskan seas three times a year, however, is prohibitively expensive.  If we were able, we’d still have a hard time tracking the vulnerability of population stock or seeing if the rest of the fleet fishing the species were as responsible as the boat we were on.  The issue is vast as—well—the ocean.

Thankfully, we have the work of the Monterey Bay and John G. Shedd Aquariums to guide us.  Through their Seafood Watch and Right Bite programs, they collect and distribute a wealth of information regarding wild and farmed seafood.  Monterey Bay has even established a set of guiding principles and criteria for objectively judging sustainability.  These criteria group fish into three categories: Best Choices (Green), Good Alternative (Yellow) and Avoid (Red).  These evaluations are invaluable to the chef or restaurateur interested in sourcing sustainable seafood.

Shedd's Right Bite wallet card, download it here.

There are five Seafood Watch criteria for evaluating the sustainability of wild-caught seafood.  They focus on the stability of the species itself, the effects of capture on the surrounding environment and the effectiveness of enforcing any necessary limits on catch.  Here they are:

•       Inherent vulnerability to fishing pressure

The more resilient a species, the less likely it is to be overfished.  For this criterion we consider the growth rate of the fish, its fecundity (a great term for reproductive capacity), and its maximum age. 

Compare a sardine and a coastal shark.  Sardines begin reproducing as young as two years old and live 5-10 years.  Additionally, they produce loads of offspring.  Sharks mature in 8-15 years (longer for females), can live 30+ years and produce only a handful of young.  The shark is inherently vulnerable to overfishing because it cannot reproduce as quickly as it can be caught.

Mediterranean sardines via anthony plewes' photostream.

•       Status of wild stocks

This criterion evaluates how “endangered” a species is.  We consider the overall biomass of the species and the rate at which it is captured.  This is surprisingly difficult to assess accurately. (Imagine trying to count all the sardines in the Mediterranean: How do you find them all?  How do you ensure you don’t count a sardine twice?  These are just the initial challenges.)

Because of the difficulty accurately assessing wild stocks, the Seafood Watch program adopts a conservative position: uncertainty is assumed unsustainable.  If we cannot be sure the health of a stock, it is considered unhealthy.  As we will see in the coming days, this leads to some of the most interesting questions in the evolution of the program.

•       Nature and extent of discarded by-catch

As anyone who has been fishing can attest, one can never be sure what is on the end of the line until it is reeled in.  As the scale of fishing increases from basic hook-and-line to longlines with hundreds of hooks to football-field-sized trawls dragged along the ocean floor, it becomes more difficult to catch only the intended fish.  Methods which reduce or eliminate by-catch are more sustainable.

We often look for hook-and-line caught fish as it not only limits by-catch (which is quickly thrown back), but also because the smaller scale tends to lead to better quality product.  Each fish pulled aboard is cared for properly: the body is not packed awkwardly, bending and denaturing the flesh; it is processed as necessary and sent to us as quickly as possible; also, it provides a more direct link between the source of the product and the final dish.  In addition to hook-and-line, diver-harvested and trapped seafood also tend to limit by-catch.

•       Effect of fishing practices on habitats and ecosystems

This criterion directly addresses the double-whammy of massive trawling operations.  As the anchors holding down the trawl net scrape along the ocean floor, entire ecosystems are disturbed and even destroyed.  The smaller-scale the operation and the less invasive the method, the smaller the footprint left behind.

Additionally, this section looks at the role the fish itself plays in the larger ecosystem.  Removing a creature that is a vital link in the food chain can have lasting consequences far beyond immediate physical damage.

What you might find when eating at Ria...

•       Effectiveness of the management regime

For the final standard we take a step back and investigate exactly how all of the above criteria are managed and enforced.  Many fisheries limit yields or methods of capture, but if there is no enforcement mechanism these limits are routinely ignored.  Additionally, the disincentives must be strong enough to stop the offending behavior but not so strong they discourage good fishing practices. 

Again, uncertainty is treated as unsustainable.  Without a certifiable metric for measuring effectiveness, management regimes are assumed to be “good alternatives” at best.  To address this challenge, a number of different operations have emerged, from completely government-controlled and operated to those formed by industry association and privately overseen.  In time, we will be able to better assess how each of these designs works and hopefully take the best of each to move forward.

So that’s a (somewhat) brief introduction to how we think about sustainable seafood.  The Seafood Watch guiding principles and criteria give us a great starting point to examine the product we are using in the kitchen.  Sometimes small changes can make huge improvements in practice: switching from Atlantic to Pacific Halibut or dropping Monkfish off a menu immediately make it more sustainable.

The real challenge is in the gray areas.  Should I use wild diver-caught scallops?  If I know the person fishing my black bass and I am certain she fishes it sustainably, am I right to use it?  These are the real questions we face each day in the restaurant and these are the questions I’ll address tomorrow.

See you then!

an 11 year old tells us what's wrong with our food system

birke baehr is eleven years old. and he knows more about our food systems than you do.

watch. and learn.



"think local. choose organic. know your farm. and know your food."

i want to be an organic farmer when i grow up too, birke. chase 'dem dreams, boy!

whole foods and grass-fed beef

the whisnant's of rain crow ranch, an all grass-fed and pasture raised cattle farm.

i think a lot of us enjoy retaining information. it's why the history channel and the travel channel and animal planet and every other odd and random niche of a network are on our tv listings, right? and now, we have social media. we have things called news feeds on facebook and streams on twitter. every minute of every day these feeds are updated with pictures and links and snippets of stories being told by someone, somewhere that we're not at that exact moment. while there are definite downfalls to this, there's also a tremendous upside. i'm retaining more random news and info than i ever have before!

which is why i was so excited to find a whole foods post in my news feed announcing a nation wide sale on grass-fed ground beef at every single one of their stores this coming friday, september 3. grass-fed ground beef. $3.99 per pound. just in time for labor day. are you kidding me?

cheeseburger time via whole foods.

but i was also skeptical. how in the world can whole foods pulls this off? how can the farmers afford it? and whose beef is this? who are those farmers? well, luckily, whole foods wasn't shy to share just exactly where the beef would be coming from for every single store in their repertoire. so i now know that the beef i'm buying this friday is coming from a 10,000 black angus cattle farm in missouri called rain crow ranch. it's a family farm run by a husband and wife (she has a doctorate and her husband studied in both agriculture and marketing) and their six kids. that's the kind of story i want to hear—and the kind of producer i want to buy from. read the list of farmers to find out where whole foods will be getting your beef from.

people have issues with whole foods ranging from things like cost to political opinions to issues with a lack of local product in their stores, i understand this. but if you're going to cook out this weekend, and you're buying ground beef anyway, then why in the world would you not take whole foods up on this?

and why grass-fed beef? hear it from the doctor (and mom) of the whisnant family:

"grassfed products have enormous health benefits. higher in omega-3 fatty acids, higher in cla, higher in vitamin e, higher in beta-carotene, lower in calories grass fed beef is one of the healthiest protein sources on the planet. though these health benefits can be measured by science they alone do not represent the true product. grass fed is as much a process as it is a product. it is a sustainable management philosophy that benefits not only the product but also the animal, the producer and the environment. grass fed beef as a product is the tip of an underlying mountain of strength and integrity rooted in family farms that put their hearts and hands into what they produce. each farm has its own unique story and history; i would like to share part of ours with you."

for more on rain crow ranch, and to really understand what goes into an operation like this—why it's important for the cattle to be fed on grass and raised in fully sustainable and organic pastures—i implore you to watch this video. this is the kind of food education we all should've gotten when in school, as kids. the kind of education our own kids are still not getting. and it's right here at your fingertips! and there's no processing or butchering at all, it's clean!

you learn a thing or two, from time to time

an elephant in the room via law h8r's photostream.

there's an elephant in the room. it's in the corner when i sleep and sitting next to me on the train when i head to the city. i see it drinking a beer at the bar and it joins us at dinner in our dining room when we eat at home. i even see it now from my desk. it's across the street, trying to climb the tree where the squirrels are. but it can't. it's too fat.

and no one else can see this elephant but me. or so i've come to realize.

losing my grandmother this summer, and watching my family suffer with that loss, has had a tremendous impact on me. which is to be expected, right? but the thing of it is, i'm ashamed of what's become of this. i've stopped eating well. i haven't been to the gym in months. we rarely cook dinner at home. our fridge is bare—and when we do go to the market, the stuff sits and rots before we ever think to eat it. to be totally candid, our produce drawers are full of mustard greens, arugula, and escolar that i bought the week we moved in to our new place. that was a month ago. and yet, when i do open the fridge, and the smell of something stale so blatantly hits my nose, i ignore it. i leave the spoiled foods where they've been untouched for weeks now in those drawers. and i'm not sure why.

fair haven, ny. where my grandmother left us and we
discovered the magic and simplicity of family and summer.

there was a point this summer when i wanted to just walk away from the business i'd started, feeling the pressure of running a one-man operation, that it was just too stupid of an idea to ever start to begin with. i'd imagine most people would come to that point when facing the loss of a family member, the excitement of an engagement, and the weight and pressure of the wedding planning that follows. which is why i didn't walk away from my business and instead am restructuring the way my business operates. if working alone is too tough, then hire somebody, right? if wedding planning is overwhelming, then take a step back and think about why you're even getting married to begin with—i keep on thinking over and over about the moment i bent on my knee. her face was beet red and she was laughing and crying and while i lost the ability to speak, i was so damn nervous, she kept asking what are you doing, what are you doing, what are you doing. over and over. and it just might be the happiest moment of my life. so planning a wedding? it's about remembering that moment, isn't it?

but the problem i'm having is that through all of this, the elephant is still there. i weigh more than fifteen pounds than i did before alicia and i left for california in june, when we got engaged. i'm at my highest weight of my life. i look awful. i've looked awful for a while now. and yet, i haven't found the courage to do anything about it. it's not that i'm sitting in a room with the lights off every night drowning in my sorrows—i've been there before. i know that feeling. this is different. most days, i'm numb to my emotions. after my grandmother's second service, which was in california, my grandfather's health started to deteriorate, too. he hasn't been able to eat much, and like her, he's been fighting cancer, too. but when she was alive, they had each other. how does one keep fighting after a loss like that? cancer doesn't let up. if you let your guard down just for a moment, it sneaks right in and doesn't relent. unfortunately, that's what he is now facing. so when i'm hungry or tired or overworked? when i'm vulnerable to my emotions and lose that numbness i carry with me every day? that's when i stop caring about what i'm eating or where it's from or how it was cooked. that's when i just eat. that's when things feel good.

and that's the total opposite of everything i've ever written about in this blog.

so there's this elephant, and i'm just not sure what to do about it. the answer is obvious. i know how to shake it. but that produce drawer is still stinking up our fridge, and i'm still sitting here ignoring it. maybe now that i've called the elephant out i'll step into the ring and take the thing on. but if it's that easy, then why'd it take me so long? why didn't i kick the elephant's butt before this?

though really, when it comes down to it, i'm getting married next summer. whether i like it or not, that elephant will grow wings before my bride to be allows any ol' elephant to sleep in our room at night. and that's maybe the sign of courage i need. like my grandparents were for each other, i've met that someone who won't let me back down.

hello, again

this was our backyard for one night. deetjen's, big sur.

it's been a while. a long while. since i last wrote, i proposed to my girlfriend; bunked for a night under a redwood along a creek in a cabin on a big sur canyon; lost my grandmother to cancer; failed to add any new clients to the business; stephanie opened her restaurant; started reading the town that food saved—a remarkable story of agriculture and community set in a vermont town called hardwick; finished reading anthony bourdain's newish book; moved; my parents moved, too; and so did my brother mikey; got deathly ill off oysters in san francisco—in the middle of the night, when i was going to propose the next day; the hearty boys received a flawless review in the tribune—and are now packed nightly; my brother tommy graduated from the 8th grade; found what might very well be the venue for the wedding; went to a wedding in north carolina; and michigan; but failed to eat my first chick-fil-a; but not my first epic burger; and, oysters and sickness and all, somehow the girlfriend said yes.

and yesterday morning i found myself sitting next to a husband and wife farmer, discussing a future project that's very much raw and in the early stages of development—but just might have the right combination of timing, public and political interest, influence, and just a desperate, desperate need by a small minority (family farmers) that'll evolve into something really, really big. something i've been waiting and waiting to not only see, but have a hand in.

but it was sitting next to the farmers, hearing first hand what it's like to be small farmers in a country whose government is making money hand-over-fist with its interests in big food commodities, when i noticed the dirt and filth caked to the nails of the farmer sitting next to me, that i realized how far i'd come in my journey from little woodland hills, california.

this farmer wore the dirt on his hands as though he'd been born that way. that my small, unblemished, dainty little fingers separated my hands from his like his bald head was different from my flowing head of hair. like blue eyes are different from green. the farmer wore his filthy and weathered hands like he had no choice. something like genetics.

i was sitting next to, and having a responsible and mature conversation with, real life farmers. to me—i could've been sitting next to magic johnson or vin scully—big deal, man.

and when i woke up this morning, i couldn't stop thinking about finding a way to re-immerse myself yet again within the issues i'd been writing and researching about late last year. family farmers are struggling. corporate farms are thriving. and in all this time that i've started my business, thousands of people across the country have continued to write and work and better the state of our food systems. well, i'm looking forward to rejoining the cause.

that, and run a business. and plan a wedding.

leaving on a jet plane

alicia and i are flying to los angeles tonight to spend a couple days with my family, and then we're driving up the coast to spend some time in san francisco, carneros, and big sur. some great farm to table restaurants are in the plans and same too for some vineyard visits, but i think i'm most excited about driving along the coast and through the windy and rolling hills of wine country. this will be a first time there for both of us—and is there a better way to close it out than staying in a cabin on a creek near the ocean in a redwood forest in big sur?

in the meantime, i'm pretty excited about something that launched yesterday. the splash page to my website! jamco new media has got some legs - albeit it wobbly toddler ones.

hope everyone has a great weekend. and we'll see you in a couple weeks!

pesticides: what to avoid, and what's okay

eating organic wasn't something we ever really learned about, right? i mean, if you really think about it, the way americans shop at the market is pretty standard: follow the big yellow price signs in the produce department and pick what not only what looks most fresh, but costs the least, too. which, of course, organic is not.

but even for those who are buying organic, nobody is quite sure why it's better and if some foods are okay to buy if they're not organic. growing up in california, i knew strawberries year-round. big, plump, juicy ones - but it's funny, because it wasn't until last summer when we moved to chicago that i tasted my first real, true strawberry.

(at the market via sarahpoelstra's photostream)

thumb nail sized berries with chive-like stems that just radiated with that bright ruby color like in the picture above - but yeah, they definitely aren't cheap. but they also aren't covered and caked in pesticides like the giant strawberries i know so well from home - the same strawberries i see in grocery stores all over chicago - which leads me to my point... unless you make nice with the produce workers, the supermarkets aren't going to take the reigns and teach shoppers what's best to buy, and it for sure won't be the government, which means we're kind of at a loss, aren't we?

that's why i try and pounce on these things as soon as i can. starting june 2, cnn will be running a two-part report on pesticides in our food - and they've thrown together a list, as well as the short video above, as a precursor of what's good to buy non-organic, and what should be avoided.

the government states that consuming pesticides in small amounts is not harmful. how do you feel about that? you mind eating these foods, caked in the stuff even after washing? the government's pockets are lined with gold by big food, so of course low doses aren't harmful... i bet your doctor would tell you the same thing, wouldn't he or she?

(not sure what about this is anywhere near appetizing...

the obvious via through joanne's eye's photostream)

and the thing of it is, fruit is tested for pesticides after it's been washed by the farmers. so that old trick you thought was helping, running the sink and giving your food a quick rinse? not really helping...

the bottom line is this. the edible parts of foods with a skin or husk aren't exposed to the chemicals like a strawberry or an apple. so think about it: if you have to peel it, like a banana, then it's okay to save your money and by what's cost-effective for you. but those berries you love? even though organic berries are sometimes twice the cost of non-organic, you're only helping yourself and anyone else in your home in the long-run.

here's a list to follow. if nothing else, i hope it at least will give you second thoughts...

what to avoid

celery
peaches
strawberries
apples
domestic blueberries
nectarines
sweet bell peppers
spinach, kale and collard greens
cherries
potatoes
imported grapes

lettuce

and what's okay

onions
avocados
sweet corn
pineapples
mango
sweet peas
asparagus
kiwi fruit
cabbage
eggplant
cantaloupe
watermelon
grapefruit
sweet potatoes

sweet onions

happy eating.

the lunch line

(i eat nearly every meal at home now, like this fish stew, on its 

third day, made with potatoes, kale, carrots, leeks, and more)

i've been clawing and itching and dying to find just a half hour to sit down and write one of the dozen or so posts that've been stewing in my mind for the past couple of weeks, but somehow a half hour has become very difficult to find. funny thing.

but i couldn't help myself when i saw the chance to take the five minutes or so that it's gonna cost me to get this one up. this project hits close to home, and i hope to begin writing about the issues more and more in the coming days. we've heard the first lady is making it her mission to reform the school lunch program, but we all need to understand why it needs changing to begin with. we need to push past the surface and dig a bit deeper to learn what it is that we've been eating for so many years, and how truly harmful it's been for our health.

here's a starter, and a damn good little effort at that.

Lunch Line Trailer from uji films on Vimeo.

i gave twenty bucks. the way i see it, that's twenty bucks i'm not spending on take-out, restaurant, or some other over-priced and not-so-healthy food from somewhere else because instead, i'm gonna eat what's in my fridge!

my baby's name is jamco, new media

(the fun i have w/ my work... chef john caputo of

bin 36 cutting swordfish steaks before service)

to grab the bull by the horns, i've lost any momentum i had going with this blog with my writing silence over the past few months - and that's a major bummer to me.

i moved to chicago with no job and a recent master's degree specified to a field that - because i couldn't have plotted my career course better - doesn't exist in the job marketplace. it's not like there are tall buildings in new york full of firms eager and awaiting a creative writer to come and start crunching ledger sheets and quarterly earnings and mutual funds. writers crunch words, and as the internet grows, the written word holds less and less value.

so this blog, for all its worth, was my way to try and crack any kind of something that might lead to a job in chicago. and funny enough, it did.

writing that piece way back in july on stephanie izard's backyard party scored me a gig working her social media and website (a gig i'm still working). in turn, working for steph scored me a job waiting tables at hot chocolate, which is helmed by mindy segal who this year is nominated, for the fourth year in a row, for a james beard award for outstanding pastry chef in the country - and she's gonna win it this year. while i swore off waiting tables ever again after leaving boston, i made some good cash working this job and became friends with even better people, one of which set up an introduction to a woman i'd heard so much about, even before moving to chicago, and i badly wanted to meet. it was through this woman - i don't know why i'm keeping her anonymous, her name is ellen malloy - that i found work with the hearty boys doing the same type of work that i do for steph. that was november.

and i think it's pretty safe to say that november was the last month that i really kept this blog running at a pace that engaged the few readers i had.

(when the hearty boys' catering vans

were tagged, there was work for me!)

a couple weeks after i met ellen another friend of mine, who i also met at stephanie's dinner, referred me to bin 36 for social media work and again, i'm doing the same type of stuff for them that i do for steph. obviously, a pattern was developing. restaurants and chefs, so consumed with the thousand moving parts that compose restaurant operation, had no time to keep up with this new thing called social media, but like those who i'm working with, were smart enough to understand they needed to find some way to manage social media somehow in order to keep their business relevant. which, is too bad when you think of it, because shouldn't food speak for itself?

(and work with steph is never dull...)

the pattern was obvious. there was work to be had in this field, and there were few in chicago who could do it. and so, almost five months later, i'm finally putting the last pieces in place to move forward and enter this wide open field.

my company is called jamco, new media and when the logo is finished, it'll be a playfully spilled jar of jam that i hope will reflect my laid back and fun edge, while still instilling the confidence and appearance of someone who gets it. because if it doesn't, then obviously... i don't get it. and there's a good chance i just don't.

i'm working with lawyers for the first time in my life and saving up cash for the big checks i'll have to write to get this thing going. but it's fun - a lot of fun - and hopefully, i'll be back in my old cities, crossing familiar bridges, and pulling along old and new friends on this venture (that's right dante, i'm coming for you!)

so here i am, clearing the stale air from the past few months that covered the navel - and i hope taking the first step to resurrecting this little platform of mine to share these little stories about this stuff i love so much, this stuff called food.

know what seafood you should be eating, and what you shouldn't be

(the copper river in alaska, source of some of the finest

salmon in the world, via walt k's photostream.)

it's not often i find comments on the blog—and worse, not often i'm posting—but this morning i came across a comment that was left on the blog yesterday afternoon, and after spending the better part of the last thirty minutes responding, i realized i'd actually written my first post in weeks.

so, to break the silence, more on salmon, starting with the comment:

how does one know if the "wild salmon" served in a restaurant, really is viable wild salmon?

and, my attempt to answer...

first off, our consciousness needs to improve on all aspects of seafood, not just salmon. with that, the monterey bay aquarium has established a program that constantly studies and analyzes the status of catch around the world, and rates their finds in a guide that's available for anyone to use (broken down depending on where you live in the u.s.).

go here to get it. but seriously, go there. and don't just read it, but print this out and bring it with you. or better yet, do the environment one better and download the app on your phone!

(the seafood card i use here in chicago. where is yours?)

right now, wild alaskan salmon (and that's what the menu needs to read, be it king, sockeye, or coho) is the only salmon you should feel good about eating. even then, eat in moderation. the demand is far too great if we consistently eat this fish and will eventually deplete the supply if it remains the only sustainable salmon option.

the western u.s. wild salmon fishing is on the rise, and hopefully even california will enter the picture as a local option, which is what we need. currently, wild salmon from washington is recommended as an alternative to wild alaskan.

which leaves us with farmed and atlantic salmon - which, like i point out in the post, is farmed salmon from european countries on the atlantic seaboard like norway, scotland, ireland, and iceland.

that said, some european salmon farms are on the upswing in practices and soon enough we may see a shift.

(the seafood card i'll use when traveling to

california this summer... unless it changes.)

so when you're at a sushi bar and all the menu reads is "salmon." ask where it's from. most sushi bars will print "wild alaskan" or "king salmon" because it costs them far more to purchase, and hence will charge you more to eat it. whether you're at a chain restaurant like maggiano's or a steakhouse like ruth's chris or you're even at some swanky restaurant in a downtown hotel, even then, avoid the salmon—if you truly want to make a difference both for yourself, our fisheries, and the environment—unless it reads... "wild alaskan!" simple enough, right?

(and, finally, the seafood card i use when eating sushi!)

the other thing to do? try other fish! go to the link above and find out what other options there are for you. just because you don't recognize the name of this fish doesn't mean it's not worth eating. you'd be surprised how good these fish are, and might even like them better than the beloved salmon...

the slow money alliance: change

i've written about slow money in the past, and today i'm asking for your help. please take your time and vote, they're so close to their goal...

the trouble with atlantic salmon: an identity crisis

(photo via the pure salmon campaign)

i once worked at a restaurant that served two types of salmon. one type was five dollars less than the other, and obviously sold far more in quantity than that which cost more. this restaurant is one of many belonging to what is possibly the greatest seafood empire in the country, so diners certainly sit at its tables with a sense of trust, that regardless of what they order, by dining there they're treating themselves to something special. but let's really think about this. truly. if one piece of salmon is listed on the menu for $19.95, and the other for $24.95, shouldn't we be looking up from our menus, scratching our heads, and asking our table-mates, why?

so the question is now before you. seriously, why do you think this is?

well, let's start by building the differences between these two types of fish. the $25 salmon is from the wild, and the $20 salmon is not. reason enough for a difference of five bucks, right? if that's the case, and if the $20 salmon isn't from the wild, could you confidently answer if i asked you, where the heck is it from then? if it's not wild, what the heck is it?

and that's the problem that people grapple with. on the whole, the problems with fishing ethics are so tertiary in politics and media, so muted, that people just don't know what's going on. don't know where their food is coming from (which, funny enough, parallels the factory farming problem far too much). and that's because when it comes down to it, we're taught to understand that cows graze and do so on land, birds fly and do so through the air, and fish, well they swim, and swimming is only done through water. and water is something our planet has lots of, so there should be lots of fish. one plus one then equals: shouldn't all fish be from the wild? the answer is yes, but yet, somehow the laws of nature have been tinkered with, and now we have fish coming from that thing that cows, the land grazing animal, call home. farms.

so how about this: one salmon is from alaska, and the other is from the atlantic. now, do you know which is wild caught and which is farm raised? do you know why?

my guess is, most people know that alaskan salmon is the cream of the crop. i'd even go so far as to say this is one the first fish most of us had ever known. remember those nature videos from our childhood? disney was infamous for them, airing often on the wonderful world of disney, remember? the stunning wildlife images of a day in the life of a grizzly bear? of the bear lurking over a shallow stream, her paw swiping at the water and pulling from it a flopping fish? and that fish, the one she'd strip clean of flesh and feed to her cubs, well, that's wild alaskan salmon. and yes, we pay top dollar for it.

but why does it cost so much more than atlantic salmon? hell, if it's atlantic salmon, it's got to be wild too, right?

on friday, mark bittman wrote this in his blog about "discovering alaskan king salmon:"

What an odd history salmon has had, not only in my lifetime but in the history of the world. (There was once so much salmon in the rivers of the Northeast that according to some historians,  servants complained about being fed the fish too often. Supposedly.)

Like so many baby-boomer East Coasters, I experienced salmon first as a canned fish. (Tuna too, of course. Who knew?) It was also an absolute luxury item at white tablecloth restaurants; I might have eaten it fresh two or three times – max – in the 60s and 70s. That’s because Atlantic salmon (of which there is only one species) had become not only overfished but endangered. (You can’t sell wild Atlantic salmon commercially.)

"you can't sell wild atlantic salmon commercially." did you catch that? do you realize the weight of those words? they're telling us that to all but a small minority of this world, true atlantic salmon, the stuff that makes its home the way nature intended, in the wild, does not exist. so what then is this stuff called "atlantic salmon?"

(norwegian atlantic salmon farm, via trondj's photostream)

two years before i started working at that seafood restaurant in boston that listed the two different salmons on the menu, the company launched a campaign around wild alaskan salmon. that was six years ago. here's how the menu reads today:

(menu via legal sea foods, park square)

ironically enough, just six years after launching a campaign to attract diners to eat the more expensive wild alaskan salmon, the fish has disappeared from the restaurant's menu, and the price of our mystery fish has increased.

so what is this mystery fish? and why does it dominate restaurant menus all over the country? again, we'll find a parallel to the corporate giants who have decimated our country's beef, pork, and poultry farming. the shades might be drawn when it comes to the dirty work, but make no mistake these corporate entities are slipping in and out of bed with the world's governments night after night.

spend the three minutes it takes to watch the video below. it's three minutes spent better than almost anything else you could be doing right now, including reading this blog post. again, so much of america's problem when it comes to food is the lack of knowledge we have about what it is, and where it comes from.

i realize how difficult it is to sit down and spend twenty minutes, let alone the three it took to watch that clip, but that's how long this documentary is. just twenty minutes. and in twenty minutes, you're learning more about this food than you've ever known about it. if that's not enough to convince you to watch the entire film, what is?

and that seafood restaurant i worked at in boston? it's called legal sea foods. yeah, you might've heard of it. when the company brought wild alaskan salmon to all of its restaurants six years ago, here's what roger berkowitz, the ceo and president of the giant chain, had to say about wild alaskan and atlantic salmon:

There's nothing wrong with farmed salmon. It's perfectly fine to serve. But wild salmon has different flavor characteristics. It's more interesting. And we're in the fish business--it's incumbent upon us to offer products that others would have trouble getting.

apparently, they're having trouble getting the wild stuff just like everyone else now. incumbent, or not.

(legal sea foods' wood-grilled salmon,

via asir-selvasingh's photostream)

and, yet, what trouble does the company go to in order to bring in the farm-raised atlantic salmon? if you watch the four clips of that documentary, you'll see that atlantic salmon is literally being harvested, boxed, and shipped overnight by fedex from europe every day, which really, i guess means the trouble for roger berkowitz in obtaining the fish is the occasional need to get up and out of his desk chair to sign for the delivery when nobody else is around?

no. the trouble roger berkowitz, and the rest of the consumers who purchase and sell atlantic salmon (and we're talking a massive amount of people here) have is an environmental trouble. it's a trouble that for those of us living today, especially those of us completely detached from our planet's well being, is irrelevant. it's as pesky as a house fly buzzing though the kitchen on a summer day. we can just ignore the thing and get by just fine, and leave the problem for someone else to deal with later on.

(sea lice, a tremendous infector of atlantic salmon,

via neil blake's photostream)

as the video details, atlantic salmon farms are stationed off the coasts of european countries. a popular salmon in restaurants today is scottish salmon, though farms exist and were made popular in norway, and are even found in iceland and other countries. these farms are over-crowded, ridden with disease, and eliminate the crucial variable to life of all species, which is natural selection. think about it, when a child of any species is born in the wild with an illness, it eventually dies. for humans, modern medicine has curbed these statistics, but that's not so in the wild. animals are often prey, and those not fit to survive in turn fuel the life of a creature better suited to live on than the prey. this can't happen in salmon farms. it's impossible. which means we're massively introducing a fish to our markets whose mortality rate in the wild ranges at best around 50%. and consider this, what if these defected fish, pumped with antibiotics and carrying scientifically modified dna, broke free from their farm habitat and spawned with pure fish in the wild? yeah, that's really happening, and some fear it won't be long before a true wild salmon, the fish that swam long before man came along, is completely extinct.

changes are being made to farming methods, but is it too late? and is change coming fast enough?

but americans want to eat good food, and do so with as little damage inflicted upon their checking accounts as possible. and, i have to imagine, roger berkowitz (a semi-finalist of the recently announced james beard award for outstanding restaurateur) is only too pleased to oblige.

fun with blogs

 

the bin 36 blog launched yesterday, and for those who love reading about food, i thought i'd share it with you. this baby has been about a month or so in the making, from when i started design work and began implementing an editorial schedule for the boys to follow, and we're thinking it might really take off... would love it if you commented on the posts and shared your thoughts!

the calamari taco lunch

as i get more and more involved with the uncharted territory before me, i have a feeling i'll be spending a lot of time working from home. like today. and like today, i'm hoping i'll be spending more time in the kitchen making my own lunch—which for more than two weeks now, along with every other meal, have been absent of the one thing i've always treasured above so much else: meat. meat, pork, poultry... all of the things that vegetarians don't eat, i haven't been eating either. but despite how easy it's been to cut the stuff out of my diet, i'm having trouble calling myself a vegetarian. but this is a different story, one i keep on pushing out of my psyche—i think because i just never thought this would happen to me. maybe it's shock—that no doubt i'll sit down and tackle soon enough. but for now, for today, i was inspired by lunch.

calamari tacos. i cut and then sautéed the calamari, chopped some white onion and tossed it with cilantro and lime, shaved some radish, and cut the avocado.

and they couldn't have lasted more than two minutes on my plate.

the brooklyn kitchen

the brooklyn kitchen spawned from amateur cooks who were frustrated with the lack of cooking supplies available in their brooklyn neighborhood. that's when taylor erkkinen and harry rosenblum took what seemed like a good idea and opened their store, which was five years ago. crain's new york business wrote about them just a couple of months ago.

(courtesy of their site, the shop before construction)

i love this. first off, i'm envious at the very idea behind what they've done. they had a passion, saw a need that was in turn impeding that passion, and took the risk to assume that others felt the same and... made a business out of it.

(and how it looks today)

there's something to learn for all of us in this story, which crain's was wise enough to recognize as well. for me, this brings to light the subtext of every thing i've written on this blog. it's like saying, wake up, everybody. at what point was ingenuity and creativity replaced by mass-produced goods and foods. where did the home cooked meal disappear to? why, one hundred years ago, did over 40% of this country's workers classify themselves within the agricultural sector, and we now face a number that is less than 2%? how did agriculture become a multi-billion dollar venture for global corporations to control, pulling the carpet from beneath the country's small farmers?

the brooklyn kitchen is a prime example of how people, whether they're conscious of it or not, are in fact willing to engage this ongoing dialogue and exorcise the far more sufficient and sustainable ways and means of agriculture and distribution that began to disppear just fifty years ago.

(my papa, carving our christmas dinner pork shank)

harry rosenblum is the son of a friend of my grandfather, and yesterday it was my grandfather's birthday. this artcile was sent to me by him. i'd give anything to have sat at the dinner table with my grandfather when he was a boy. what did my g.g. cook for him back then? where did she shop? and how far did the foods she brought home travel before they wound up in her hands? have you ever even thought of how different food might have looked then? that's something i never even thought to ask my grandfather, but so easily could. all of these questions are.

as i often say, maybe i'm just a nostalgic idealist. maybe there's little to the cause and in truth, people are more obsessed with a place like the brooklyn kitchen because we as a people are eating more food than we've ever eaten before. but then why did the brooklyn kitchen just recently opened the brooklyn kitchen labs, as crain's highlights, where cooking classes are offered and filled constantly? people are finding their way back to the kitchen, and the bar has been raised when it comes to what they want to learn and who they want to learn it from. but is this a small movement, or the start of something far larger?

(the newly opened brooklyn kitchen labs and meat hook)

and how much do i wish they'd opened shop in chicago and not brooklyn?

happy birthday, papa. thanks for this.